Playa Potrero Grande was safer than my last surfing itinerary. It has a popular, infamous nickname as well. Ollie’s Point is named after the airstrip in the area that former Senator Oliver North used to smuggle arms to the Sandinistas. Nowadays, the place is still dangerous. Small sharks and crocodiles live in the area. But that never turned away the intrepid surfer. Including me! It’s also happens to be one of the oldest beaches used for surfing.
Ollie’s Point is truly one of the most perfect surfing spots found by man. You will often see the words point break into a rivermouth describing it. The river mouth is the end part of the river that breaks into the sea, and point break refers to the waves themselves; going on for quite a distance and rising to favorable heights. This expression refers to how the waves rise just right because of how the waters flow in this particular beach.
My stay in Ollie’s Point was not without incident; I sighted a sea crocodile in the water, but attacks from any creature was very rare. Maybe these creatures are human shy, or never experienced the full brunt of human habitation where they live. These days were all about the surf.
The waves did not stop, and I rode each one as they came in. The wind blowing in my damp hair and sun in my eyes. The longer I kept going, the more I felt myself blending in with the water, feeling every little membrane of movement.
It was as if deep from the bowels of the earth, Nature was sharing its energy with me. And all this energy was relentless, and would not stop flowing, and could overwhelm me if I tried to resist it. And so I embraced it, let it flow into me and let it carry me to the edge, again and again and again.
I had something comparable to a religious experience in those waves. Sincerely, I will never forget Ollie’s Point.
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