And they say you’ve been bitten by the surfing bug. There is no coming back from it.
You’re doomed. You’re doomed to spend the rest of your life looking for that next hit. That next swell. That next storm. That next wave. That next time.
Surfing has been often called an addiction. There’s no doubt about it. Surfing will get into your brain. It will fry it with stoke and unleash in you a hunger to just be in the water–a lot, often, always. Days in the city will drive you crazy when you know that the waves are breaking a few hours away. The thought of crowds will make you aggressive, and the thought of someone dropping in on your wave will make you want to hit someone. Unlike heroin and other addictions though, surfing gives us surfers so much more than the ephemeral stoke.
Physically, it beats ordinary cardio anytime. Surfing is a very physical sport. I remember the time that I decided to get in shape because of surfing, that was when I almost drowned a few meters from the shore when my leash snapped. Ahh..there’s nothing like knowing that the difference between life and death is your dedication to getting up and doing some cardio in the morning, to get you on the path to fitness. I know a lot of fat surfers. They are not very good.
Although a fair amount of localism (and drop-ins) can produce the most awesome black-eyes ever, I think one of the best things I got out of surfing was the lack of aggression I feel after every session. Surfing is so physically exhausting sometimes that I get out of the water feeling like I’m 90 years old. (Those are the best times.) Although, it’s cautioned that you have to leave the water before you’re completely exhausted, barring you getting caught in a rip, or suddenly getting a cramp, and you die(you get the drift), nothing beats getting out of the water knowing you surfed your heart out and got your wave of the day. BEST FRIGGING FEELING EVER.
There’s also this much touted spiritual side to this sport. There’s a certain Zen that goes hand in hand with surfing. If you’re too aggro out of the water, it means you’re not doing it right in my book. You get the usual things like “being one with nature” and “being one with the wave.” And it’s true. The best surfers have this uncanny “spidey” sense on waves. They “feel” how the wave will go. Personally, I’ve had experiences like that–it involved me getting a wave and realizing instinctively that I paddled too late and I am now going over the falls. Actually, come to think of it, going over the falls is such a spiritual thing too. You get flashes of light, or your life flashes right before your eyes.
Surfing was the sport of kings in Hawaii. And honestly, I still think it still is. We are kings of the ocean. But then, the world does not need us to go surfing. We, humans owe the ocean and nature for our stoke. And that my friends, is why we should keep our beaches clean, and quit messing up the ocean. Else, we’ll be surfing in waste (as some already do in some parts of the world…ick), getting sick, and the only way that we can surf is to turn into mutants, which doesn’t bode well for the rest of the planet.
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